hell is empty and all the devils are here.
Vetements Autumn/Winter 2021
Written by B. Hellington
04/06/2021
Heaven on earth, hell on earth. Or maybe all three jumbled together. Vetements brings a massive 165 looks for their AW21 collection; Guram Gvasalia brings forth a journey through fiery backgrounds, rainbows and balaclava’d models climbing the stairways to heaven.
Vetements is no stranger to a provocative approach to the fashion world. According to CEO Guram Gvasalia, this collection is meant to be a reflection of the hell of a situation we’re experiencing in the present moment with the pandemic. Separated through different backgrounds, Gvasalia offers a visual concept of each stage, with the final stage of heaven representing a certain glimmer of hope for the future, in which dressing up to go out to party all night is seen in evening wear across lace dresses, dark suits, and trench coats. I mean, one can dream.
To get to heaven it takes a lot of work though, and Gvasalia makes sure we don’t forget the steps to get there. Looking at it, it’s as if “The Matrix” and the 90s rave scene gave birth and this is the peculiar result: big padded shoulders, dark sunglasses, and a sickening amount of neon lime green accents in everything from miniskirts to cropped jackets.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a Vetements collection without the signature ironic slogans on t-shirts and hoodies. This time, the present constant disillusionment of the young population is seen through phrases, such as “ I LIKE FAIRYTALES AND FINANCIAL STABILITY”, plastered all over. Yet even with all of this play on different ideas, Gvasalia still maintains the classic staples Vetements has always been known and loved for, like the sleazy jeans, thigh-high boots, and skin-tight turtlenecks. Beyond that, the classic subversive nature of the brand also makes itself present with a padded shoulder tee basically screaming “THINK WHILE IT’S STILL LEGAL” and upside-down anarchy symbols painted across chests. Controversy really does never get old and maybe that’s just exactly what we need to keep moving forward.
get warrior-ready: balaclavas are in.
The hottest accessory for Autumn/Winter 2021
Written by B. Hellington
06/06/2021
We’re all used to wearing masks by now. And this season for Autumn/Winter 2021, it is no different. The balaclava is the unexpected but sincerely appropriately timed trend of the season, protecting us from the cold and also the virus: the perfect combination for a modern doomsday.
Soldiers, petty crime, rebellion. Throughout history, balaclavas have always had different connotations. Their name actually originates from the Battle of Balaclava in the Crimean war of 1854, in which knitted facial coverings were worn by British soldiers to protect themselves from the brutal weather. Later, they became common-wear for soldiers and criminals alike, renowned for their identity concealing abilities which also come in handy for protesters, famously used by the Russian feminist group Pussy Riot. Today, you can usually find cute and jolly versions worn by influencers on Instagram. Ah, how the tables have turned.
Balaclavas today are more of a fashion statement. To sum it up, you need guts to be able to pull it off properly. They do come in a bunch of different styles now though, like bright colors and patterns, spiky knits, and sometimes even tight enough to shape your head into an alien-like form. Sometimes even animal-like ears are also present with more neutral tones. Combined with a variety of winter outfits, designers like Raf Simons and Annakiki have taken a specific liking to pair them with puffer jackets, sunglasses, and, to be honest, really everything. Both customers and brands were hesitant before the pandemic to implement this headgear into casual outerwear, however, sales skyrocketed with the everyday use of facemasks. (However, don’t forget that knitwear does not protect against COVID-19 like a proper face mask does. Continue keeping your masks up, people.) All in all, it’s become a versatile accessory for the winter months, being able to merge functionality and practicality stylishly.
The recent popularity of the balaclava leaves us wondering what meaning it carries when looking at the fashion industry's future after this pandemic. Are we moving to the so-called dystopian era we’ve always feared? Does this mean we incorporate more war-like utilitarian attire from now on? Is the revolution coming soon? Big questions. Yet, one thing is for certain: we do feel more comfortable in being distant and anonymous now. Is this the future? Time will tell.
Raf Simmons
Fashion East (Maximilian Davis)
Eckhaus Latta
Eudon Choi
Sunnei
Juun.j
Max Mara
Annakiki
Miu Miu
Givenchy
Budapest Select
Sonia Carrasco
Wooyoungmi
Tod's
dressing for the revolution
Snapshots from Milan Pride 2021
Photographed by B. Hellington
26/06/2021
"You look ridiculous if you dance.
You look ridiculous if you don’t dance.
So you might as well dance."
– Gertrude Stein
